Трогир

Трогир

One of the advantages of winter travel along the coast of the Adriatic is the complete lack of tourists. There are no queues in the frame, there are no ubiquitous Japanese who don’t let you take a photo and you are not knocked down by the following excursion group. Everything is quiet and measured as it should be in the Balkans. The only negative point is that all the restaurants, shops, museums and the other attractions are closed and some cities even «die out» in winter.

Трогир
One of these desolate places we visited in early January. It was the Croatian town of Trogir.
The first mention of the city dates back to the III century BC. That’s when the Dorians (one of the main Greek tribes) arrived at these lands from the island of Vis (Issa) and settled down on a small piece and founded Greek colony. That small piece appeared to be an island between the mainland and the island Ciovo (Ciovo). The length of it is 550 meters away and only 250 meters in width.

Трогир Хорватия

The Greeks and the city owes its name. In Greek tragic means “goat”. When the Dorians came here they saw a herd of goats in the hills and in honor of the animals called the place – Tragos.
At various times Trogir belonged to the Croatian and Hungarian king, the Venetian and the Austrian Empire, the Italians, and after the collapse of Yugoslavia in 1990 it has become a part of modern Croatia. But thanks to the isolation from the mainland, the medieval-Renaissance city of the Venetian period, surrounded by ramparts of the XV century, came to us in good condition.

Трогир

The historic center of Trogir is miniature but extraordinarily rich in the unique cluster of old buildings. I invite you to take a short tour through the best of them.

Northern Gates to Trogir

Northern Gates to Trogir

The main entrance to the city is organized through the Northen Gates, which are crowned by a sculpture of the XV century of patron of the Trogir city and the first Bishop – Blessed John Ursini (John Trogir), made by the Milanese architect Bonino. There is an interesting fact that a stone under the sculpture is upside down. We tried to find a beautiful and a romantic explanation but, unfortunately, no one knows anything about it.

Northern Gates to Trogir

If you turn left after an entrance, then after a few meters you will come to the main square of the Old Town – Square of Pope John Paul II (Trg Ivana Pavla II). Earlier this place was the Roman Forum and now concentrates all the major sights of Trogir.

Chipiko Palace (Cipiko Palace)

Chipiko Palace

In the western part of the square of Pope John Paul II is Chipiko Palace, which belonged to one of the wealthiest and one of the most respected families of Trogir. They ruled the area for about three hundred years and made a significant contribution to the development of the city.

new Chipiko Palace
This neo-Gothic mansion is a complex of buildings. There is a small and a large palace of the XV century. They were once connected by a common walkway. It has not preserved until today. Faсade, decorated in Venetian Gothic style, and an abundance of bas-reliefs give such piquantness to the Chipiko Palace.

Chipiko Palace Trogir

To the left of the Palace is the main Cathedral of Trogir – the Cathedral of St. Lawrence (Lavro).

Cathedral of St. Lawrence

Cathedral of St. Lawrence

The cathedral was being built over several centuries (from XIII to XVI centuries.). And it is not surprising that it combines the features of different architectural styles. Historians say that the temple was built on the ruins of another church that was demolished in 1123 by the Saracens who attacked the city. Advanced architecture lovers can even trace its shape in a modern building of the cathedral.

the Cathedral of St. Lawrence

The Cathedral of St. laurels is famous not only for its 47-meter bell tower but for the Romanesque portal. It’s a real work of art created by sculptor Radovan in 1240.

Cathedral of St. Lawrence portal

Master decorated the portal with biblical scenes of urban life and portrayed the historical time of the attack of Saracens on Trogir. Sculptures of two stone lions on both sides of the entrance, that support the statues of Adam and Eve, are the most valuable.

Cathedral of St. Lawrence portal

Cathedral of St. Lawrence portal

The interior of the cathedral is not inferior to the exquisitely decorated portal. In the center of the church, there is an installed chapel with the sarcophagus already familiar to us by the Northen gates of the Blessed John Ursini (Trogir) – the work of sculptor Nicholas Florentine (1480), a student of Donatello. Dalmatian master painted ceiling vaults in the form of the sky and round windows are symbols of the sun. In the chapel, there are also some stone statues and the altar which shows angels.

Cathedral of St. Lawrence altar
In the eastern part of Pope John Paul II Square is located the Comunale Palazzo, St. Sebastian Church with the clock tower and Big City Lodge.
площадь Ивана Павла II

Comunale Palazzo

Comunale Palazzo trogir

About this three-floored building is only known that it was built in the XV century and in XIX it has undergone significant reconstruction. The facade is decorated with magnificent arches, balustrade and stone coat of arms. Now here is the Town Hall (City Hall Trogir).

The Church of St. Sebastian

The Church of St. Sebastian

Next to the Comunale Palazzo is St. Sebastian church with a clock on the tower. It was built in 1476 in honor of getting rid of pox in Trogir. Now in the church, there is an exposition dedicated to Trogir people who died in the war of 1991-1995.

The Church of St. Sebastian trogir
Saint Sebastian (in Orthodoxy – Sebastian Milan) is another character who suffered for the faith of Emperor Diocletian. I want to remind that in his company there also are martyrs of Salona, Bishop Douillet from Split and Christians from the monastery of Dajbabe. Interestingly, when we come to the next Croatian city, will we find martyred by Diocletian and canonized Christians there?

Big City Lodge

Big City Lodge Trogir

On the right side of the St. Sebastian church, there is the Big City Lodge (1471). It is a covered gallery which is supported by six columns with Roman capitals. At that time lodge performed several functions. It was a meeting point for urban residents who dispensed justice, organized fairs, and feasts and even left a sleeping place for the night wanderers.

Big City Lodge Trogir
The Lodge is decorated with interesting bas-reliefs of the work of Nikola Florentines. On the south wall of the lodge, there is the marble bas-relief depicting horse figures of Bishop Peter Bereslavich, who was killed in battle with the Turks in 1520, as evidenced by two marble plaques hung at both sides of the bas-relief.

bas-relief in Big City Lodge Trogir
On the east wall of the lodge is another bas-relief, which symbolizes the allegory of Truth, with figures of Trogir heaven patrons: John of Trogir on the left and on the right – St. Lawrence. The center of the composition is empty: once there was a great image of the Venetian lion, knocked down in 1932.

bas-relief in Big City Lodge Trogir

If you come to Trogir for a few days, you will have a great opportunity to live in the walls of the Old City. Most apartments in buildings during the touristic seasons are for rent.

And now we move on. If you walk from the square of Pope John Paul II trough Gradskaya street, on our way you will meet St. Nicholas Church.

Church of St. Nicholas

Church of St. Nicholas Trogir

Unfortunately, the streets of Trogir are so narrow that it is entirely impossible to take pictures of the whole church, so we will collect it by parts. In addition, due to the Christmas holidays, the temple was closed. But according to the description, a wooden polyptych and a crucifix made in the Gothic style; unique relief of the Greek god Kairos, which grants wishes; coins, an altar dedicated to the goddess Hera and the relief depicting a woman doing housework is stored there.

Church of St. Nicholas

In addition, the church contains the image of the Madonna and Child which dates back to the XIII century. And the church itself was built in the southern wall of Trogir in 1064 thanks to the efforts of the bishop and patron saint of the city of St. John Trogir.

Church of St. Nicholas trogir
A few meters from the church is a second entrance to the Old City – Southern city gates.

Southern City Gates

Southern City Gates ща trogir

They were built in the XVI century and were a part of the city wall. We can see the original «survived» wooden door jambs, bounded with metal nails.

Southern City Gates trogir

For the safety of the city, gates were locked at night and the «latecomers» had to spend the night outside of the city walls.

Small Town Lodge

Small Town Lodge trogir

And they spent the night in a small city lodge which is located directly under the city walls. Later it became a fish market and now this is a seasonal restaurant. Even from the city loggia, we can see our next attraction – the monastery of St. Dominic.

Church and Convent of St. Dominica

Church and Convent of St. Dominica trogir

The church complex is located directly on the waterfront, surrounded by evergreen trees. This is one of the monuments of Trogir, protected by UNESCO. It was built in the XIII century and consecrated in honor to St. Dominic, the founder of the monastic order of Dominicans. Nowadays the monastery is closed but it can be viewed from the outside.

Church and Convent of St. Dominica trogir

The impressive Gothic architecture does not leave anyone indifferent. For example, here I first met unusual stained glass windows, similar to the bottoms of glass bottles.

Church and Convent of St. Dominica trogir

And here you will find something new for yourself.

Camerlengo

Camerlengo trogir

Construction of the Camerlengo fortress began in 1380 with the erection of the Tower chain, which helped to block the flow circuits and protect the bay from the invaders.

Camerlengo trogir
The building of the fortress itself began in 1420 when Trogir became a part of the Venetian Republic. Camerlengo was a small independent city, surrounded by a protective moat. Inside the tower walls houses, a chapel and a well with drinking water were located.
The name comes from the Latin fortress Camerarius which means «treasury financial clerk». And it got its name in a right way. Fortress met marine dealers and was the place where they paid tribute for the entrance to the bay.

Camerlengo trogir
Today the Camerlengo castle is converted into a summer stage, an outdoor movie theater and a viewing platform on the tower where you can admire the panorama of the old Trogir.

The tower of St Mark

The tower of St Mark trogir

St. Mark’s Tower was built in the XV century and once was part of the fortress Camerlengo. It was built to defend the canal that runs between the island and the mainland and the artillery was installed on the roof. And now there is a cozy café which offers stunning views of the harbor and the city. But it works only in the tourist season.

Between the fortress of Camerlengo and the tower of St. Mark’s is a small memorial dedicated to the friendship between Croatia and France. Jaroslav thought it was a great place for performances and public readings.

memorial of french frendship

With you, we have gone through the most popular attractions of Trogir. But the spirit of this city lives in the details, in unusual historical bas-reliefs which can be found at almost every step.

trogir

trogir

In the churches which are hidden in the narrow streets of the city.

trogir churches

церковь Святого Петра

And in the very streets of Trogir.

Trogir

Trogir

Trogir

Do not miss the opportunity to visit this city and walk along the 550-meter ageless history.

Трогир

How to get to Trogir

Trogir is located about 27 km west from Split. The closest airport is just in 7 km – Airport of Split.

Trogir is connected to Split by bus routes and regular intercity bus connections to other major Croatian cities – Zagreb, Osijek, Pula, Zadar, Sibenik, Varazdin, Makarska, and Dubrovnik.

But the easiest way to get to any point of Croatia is on a rented car. This service will help you to choose the car according to your wishes.

 

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